Prusa Mk3

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Revision as of 08:38, 23 September 2018 by BShute (talk | contribs) (Fixed induction link better)
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Prusa I3 Mk3
Prusa-i3.jpg
A Genuine Prusa made by Prusa Research
Equipment Information
Status Fully Armed and Operational
Manufacturer Prusa Research
Model Original Prusa i3 MK3 kit
Firmware Prusa official firmware
Hackspace Information
Induction Required Yes
Induction Information Here
Card RFID Enabled No
Owner Leeds Hackspace
[More Info]


Notice: This page should be brought up to the standards of induction as soon as possible.

This is the hackspaces genuine Prusa Mk3. It's rediculesly awesome, creates nice prints, and mostly just works. Commonly joked to be the one 3d printer in the hackspace that works, it has numerous features that make using it awesome.

Improvements to be made

Even the most reliable printer in the hackspace has some upgrading to do (we are a hackspace, so hacking is sort of essential).

Octopi install

Fligg Got us a Rasp Pi Zero W to install. Ben has printed the bracket for mounting. For any maintainers wishing to finish the upgrade, please follow the How To guides on the prusa website [1] Linked here. When Last checked, we lack the long enough 2.54mm headers needed to make the connection with the mainboard.

Multi Material Upgrade

The Prusa MMU Mk2 released, and allows the prusa to print with 5 materials. Which is pretty awesome. However it also happens to cost £250 pre shipping. Which is less awesome.If anyone wants to start raising funds then that would be helpfull.

Automated Fire Suppression

This is partly a joke, and partly a solutiont to a problem. The problem: what happens if the printer goes burny. The solution: automated fire suppression. The prusa currently has a nice but juryrigged metal enclosure (not currently on the image), to stop stuff being dropped on it. The idea is to hack a fire alarm, and bolt the noise output to a Solenoid valve, and just flood the build chamber with CO2. Is this necesary? Certainly not, it's rediculous. Prusas generally dont go nova.

Todo:

  • Attach door to enclosure.
  • Get Solenoid valve, CO2 canister, Piping and Fire alarm
  • Setup
  • Test

Usage

Notice: You must be inducted on the prusa in order to actually use it. This is merely a refresher

Notice: Currently overnight runs are a question as yet unresolved (which means no untill we figure out if we can).

  1. Aquire an STL from somewhere. Be it off the internet, modeling and exporting it yourself, or just manually writing out the position of all the triangles.
  2. Slice the file
    1. Drop your STL into Prusa Control. Select the preset in the top right. Then hit the slice button, then the save button.
    2. Drop your STL into Slic3r. Select the preset in the top right. Then hit the save Gcode button
  3. Save your GCode to your own folder on the Prusa SD card. The 3d print computer has an sd card reader on the front (it is the rightmost bottom port).
  4. Put the SD card into the prusa
  5. Select the file in the prusas "Print from SD" menu.
  6. Watch your print slowly grow.

Slic3r profiles

There are provided profiles for layerhights of 0.1mm, 0.15mm and 0.2mm. Profiles for 0.25mm and 0.3mm have been created. Any printer maintainers will likely want to increase the print speed on the settings, as the printer has shown itself to hapily print at 60mm/s, while only being sliced at 40.

Payment

TODO: FIXME

Usage costs of the prusa are currently yet to be decided.

Inductions

3d printer inductions have yet to be standardised. Please ask in slack about their current status and post on the mailing list to ask for one.