Workshop/Felix: Difference between revisions

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This is a Felix 1.5 donated to the hackspace. The heat bed hates life, so generally will take an age to heat up. It's not it's fault though it's made of Aluminium clad resistors.


The Hackspace owns a Felix 1.5 which was donated for member use.
== Usage ==


The 3D printer functions, though its design is older in practice compared to more recent designs (for example a Prusa i3 Mk2).
Note: You need to be inducted on the printers to use them. This is dead so isn't worth being inducted on yet, but this is here to act as a maintainence guidline


The heatbed uses four resistors, and is aluminium, this was provided with kapton tape on the bed and tested to do an adequate print.
To print with the Felix, ensure the printer is turned on AND plugged into a computer


Felix 1.5 is no longer sold by the company which makes it, however a web archive of its product page can be found here:
Load Repetier host, and connect to the printer. Begin heating the bed ASAP, as it takes 20-30 mins


http://web.archive.org/web/20130517200319/http://www.felixprinters.com/product-catalog/complete-kits/felix-1-5-complete.html
Slice your file with either Repetier, or using an external slicer and then loading your gcode into repetier


There is still a manual and firmware files available from their website:
Click start print, and the printer will run


http://www.felixprinters.com/downloads_felixprinters
The printer has shown it self to run well at 50+mm/s when it wants to


Under '2. TEC Series' -> 'Felix 1.5'
== Maintainance ==


http://www.felixprinters.com/downloads/?dir=2.%20Tec%20Series/1.%20FELIX%201.5
The felix prints sometimes, and has many issues


There are also reviews available online:
=== Hotend issues ===


http://www.3dprintingera.com/review-of-felix-1-5/
The hotend will cut out mid print, resulting in a Thermal monitor warning, and the print being killed


The control board is your typical RAMPS 1.4 with an Arduino Mega 2560, it is also running a version of Marlin though not sure what version yet, or what configuration required. It's likely this could be upgraded to the latest version. The control board also has an LCD panel connected.
To fix this, try manually modifiying the PID values (See the guide on how to do this on [[Team 3D|Team 3D's]] page, whenever it goes up)


== Current status ==
Also, check the powersupply, as it may be having issues kicking out the necesary current.


The Printer does currently print with some convincing, but has many issues.
=== Heat bed ===


The first key issue is that the printers heatbed lacks the ability to heat up in any reasonable time, due to the fact that it's "heatbed" is a thin sheet of aluminium, with some resistors attached for heating purposes.
The heat bed isn't terrible, but it is most definately bad.


The second key issue is that the printer's hotend will occasionaly jam.
Current options:
 
* Mount a standard reprap heatbed - Needs custom mounting brackets
* Mill/etch custom heatbed - Needs large copper clad board, and CNC induction
* Add more resistors to the current board - Hacky and cheap
 
The latter two options would be my choice.
 
=== Bed leveling ===
 
Leveling the bed is a pain. Recomended solutions are same as for the [[MendelMax]].
 
== Links ===
* http://web.archive.org/web/20130517200319/http://www.felixprinters.com/product-catalog/complete-kits/felix-1-5-complete.html
* http://www.felixprinters.com/downloads_felixprinters
* http://www.felixprinters.com/downloads/?dir=2.%20Tec%20Series/1.%20FELIX%201.5
* http://www.3dprintingera.com/review-of-felix-1-5/


[[Category:3D_Printers]]
[[Category:3D_Printers]]

Latest revision as of 13:27, 3 October 2018

Felix
Felix.jpg
A Donated Felix V1.5
Equipment Information
Status Printing
Manufacturer Felix Printers
Model 1.5
Hackspace Information
Induction Required Yes
Induction Information Here
Card RFID Enabled No
Owner Leeds Hackspace


This is a Felix 1.5 donated to the hackspace. The heat bed hates life, so generally will take an age to heat up. It's not it's fault though it's made of Aluminium clad resistors.

Usage

Note: You need to be inducted on the printers to use them. This is dead so isn't worth being inducted on yet, but this is here to act as a maintainence guidline

To print with the Felix, ensure the printer is turned on AND plugged into a computer

Load Repetier host, and connect to the printer. Begin heating the bed ASAP, as it takes 20-30 mins

Slice your file with either Repetier, or using an external slicer and then loading your gcode into repetier

Click start print, and the printer will run

The printer has shown it self to run well at 50+mm/s when it wants to

Maintainance

The felix prints sometimes, and has many issues

Hotend issues

The hotend will cut out mid print, resulting in a Thermal monitor warning, and the print being killed

To fix this, try manually modifiying the PID values (See the guide on how to do this on Team 3D's page, whenever it goes up)

Also, check the powersupply, as it may be having issues kicking out the necesary current.

Heat bed

The heat bed isn't terrible, but it is most definately bad.

Current options:

  • Mount a standard reprap heatbed - Needs custom mounting brackets
  • Mill/etch custom heatbed - Needs large copper clad board, and CNC induction
  • Add more resistors to the current board - Hacky and cheap

The latter two options would be my choice.

Bed leveling

Leveling the bed is a pain. Recomended solutions are same as for the MendelMax.

Links =